South American Adventure - Santiago

1. Booking
2. DEN-IAD-ATL-MIA
3. Miami
4. MIA-SCL
5. SCL-IPC
6. Easter Island
7. IPC-SCL
8. Santiago
9. SCL-MVD
10. Montevideo
11. MVD-SCL-MIA-IAD-DEN

What would you expect for $30 a night?  What do you expect from the Intercontinental hotel chain?  While these are two very different questions, they were both on my mind as the TransVIP van dropped me off at the Intercontinental Santiago.  In the weeks leading up to my trip, I booked the hotel with a point special so it cost me 5,000 points instead of the regular 30,000.  You can buy points at a rate of $30 per 5,000 (see this post for details), so that is why I was seeing my rate as $30 a night instead of $250 and had mixed expectations.

Intercontinental Hotel Santiago Chile

Upon arrival, I noticed that the lobby looked top notch. My excitement was building.  The front desk agent found my reservation and thanked me for being a Platinum Priority Club member.  I asked what benefits I would get, and he said none because “Priority Club only paid for the room.”  No lounge access, no wifi, no upgrade, no welcome gift, nothing. My excitement plateaued. It is incredibly frustrating that IHG doesn’t recognize status when you aren’t paying with cash; it kills the relationship with the brand.  Disappointed, I grabbed my keys and went to my room.

Intercontinental Santiago Room

Intercontinental Santiago Room

Intercontinental Santiago Room

When I entered the room, I noticed a strange moldy smell.  This was an instant deal breaker.  I immediately called the front desk, explained the problem, then (I couldn’t believe this step was needed) explained why I wanted to switch rooms.  They sent up a bell hop a few minutes later with my new keys.

Intercontinental Santiago Room

The new room was on the top floor next to the Presidential Suite - a good sign. I opened the door and it looked as though the room hadn’t seen a decorator since Pan Am stopped flying there.  The problems didn’t stop with the wallpaper color (carpet stains, runny toilet, shower door didn’t close properly), but by this point it was too late for me to care.  I unpacked, plugged in, and fell asleep on a lumpy bed.

Santiago, Chile

Intercontinental Hotels has a web series showing tours of the local area given by the hotel concierge.  This is a great selling point and I have had great experiences in the past with their advice (Budapest was the best).  In the morning, I went to the concierge desk and he brushed me off to a bell hop instead of answering my questions.  He was too busy taping a package to help me explore Santiago (it looked like the same guy from the video). The bell hop was able to hand me a map and practice his broken English, but not help me at all. I was looking for the concierge to enhance my stay, like the video series suggests, but not at the Intercontinental Santiago (luckily I ran across the W hotel and their staff was amazingly helpful).

Santiago is a gritty city. I toured it on foot and saw a few sights and had some odd food (they put green beans on sandwiches).  It’s not the most tourist friendly place to visit though. I enjoyed finding the Christmas by Coca-Cola experience and the huge old cathedral.  There aren’t many actual tourist sites in town.  I did stumble upon a large loacalmarket (selling everything from ceviche to underwear to soap), Chilean art museum, and a pleasant park that runs along the river and is popular with locals.

Back at the hotel, one of the elevators was broken, so it took forever to go anywhere.  I felt like unwinding with a swim and went to the top floor pool.  I was pleasantly surprised to find the pool was deserted.  The views were great, but there were no towels.  I called to have some brought up and was told to go down a floor to the (closed) gym and grab some there.  Not even a roadside Hampton Inn would do that.

I stopped by the concierge desk in the evening to get some post card stamps.  About four staff members were behind the desk watching soccer (there is a mirror behind the desk so I could see the computer screen, earlier they were watching porn).   I knew the stamp price and objected when they quoted me a 20% premium.  They didn’t budge, so I had to give in.  Over a month later, none of these post cards have arrived; I have the sinking feeling they may have just pocketed my cash.  I then went to the front desk to arrange for TransVIP to pick me up in the morning (it was $12 and 90 minutes to the airport).  I was happy to leave.

Travel Tip - Priority Club Points

Never pay more than $30 for 5,000 Priority Club points or more than $150 (cost of 25,000 points) for a Holiday Inn.  Priority club lets you buy 10,000 points for $60 when using their cash and points option.  If you cancel the reservation, the points stay in your account and can be used on any other stay.  Simple as that, I've been told.  I've never done this myself, but read successful accounts of this process online.  I have enough points now that I don't need to buy them, but it is great to have a simple cost equation available on when to spend money or points.

Cash & Points Option

South American Adventure - IPC-SCL

1. Booking
2. DEN-IAD-ATL-MIA
3. Miami
4. MIA-SCL
5. SCL-IPC
6. Easter Island
7. IPC-SCL
8. Santiago
9. SCL-MVD
10. Montevideo
11. MVD-SCL-MIA-IAD-DEN

I’m starting to get the LAN experience down.  This Easter Island to Santiago flight will be my third consecutive LAN business class flight on a 767 and have a good idea for the drill.  The flight doesn’t board until after 2, but LAN wants you checked in around 12:30; this still gives you a fair amount of time to see something in the morning, it is a small island.  They do run a Southwest style fast turn on the jet once it lands.  There is very little to do at the airport.  There is no business lounge, a small bar, and about a dozen souvenir stands.  Most of the action comes from watching the plane land and the ground crew spring into action.  There is also free Wi-Fi in the terminal.

LAN 767 arriving at Easter Island

Boarding started abruptly and haphazardly.  There was no announcement or boarding order; just a large mash of people formed around the gate agent and started walking to the plane.  IPC has no jet bridge, so it was a hop across the tarmac and up the stairs.  I had seat 4A, not realizing that row 4 is missing a window.  There isn’t much to see, but it does make for a little claustrophobic feeling.  The business class cabin was full and the flight attendants were trying to facilitate some seat switching.  I won seatmate lottery by getting an Antarctic research vessel crew member to talk with for 5 hours.  Very interesting stuff and now I really want to go and explore the southern limits of the earth (she worked as a liaison on a US flagged ship and made bank why playing with penguins and motor boats, sound like a great job).

Boarding my flight to SCL

The plane boarded fast and we were quickly away.  The meal service was what I expected from LAN, three courses and decent quality, again with a wide wine selection.  I did try one of the domestic beers, Chrystal, and it was awful; I used a Heineken to get the taste out.  I understand now why Corona and Tecate are imported to Easter Island.  After the meal service, the flight attendants were scarce (standard procedure I guess).  Ring the call button to get a refill because they don’t check very often.

LAN Business Class Meal

I watched two movies on the flight.  LAN’s inflight entertainment is very good and they have quite a few selections.  The time went very quickly.  Halfway through my flight though my seat broke and a flight attendant was able to fix it, but it looked like she had to take it apart.  The flight attendant was able to take care of it in less than 5 minutes; I had a feeling this wasn’t the first time she saw this problem. 

LAN 767 Business Class Seat

LAN 767 Business Class Seat

LAN 767 Business Class Seat

Landing was smooth and then I had a quick taxi to the gate.  I wished my seat mate safe travel back to Alaska and made my way to the Trans VIP counter to get a ride to my hotel in Santiago.  Trans VIP charges about $12 to go into Santiago.  They run new vans (4,000 kms on mine) and depart very frequently; an overall great experience and recommended highly.  It’s good to have your hotel’s address handy just in case they don’t recognize it.  It took less than an hour from landing to arriving at my hotel, the Intercontinental Santiago.

LAN 767-300

South American Adventure - Easter Island

1. Booking
2. DEN-IAD-ATL-MIA
3. Miami
4. MIA-SCL
5. SCL-IPC
6. Easter Island
7. IPC-SCL
8. Santiago
9. SCL-MVD
10. Montevideo
11. MVD-SCL-MIA-IAD-DEN

I had a few expectations for Easter Island.  First, since their economy is based on tourism, I expected a well-developed tourist infrastructure; secondly, I expected the moai statues to be impressive; and thirdly, I expected a beach.  Two of the three expectations were met. 

The neon blue waters around Easter Island

The Explorer Hotel looks like the only place at a Holiday Inn Express level or better.  Unfortunately it was booked.  I wound up at a place that had 3.5 stars on Expedia that turned out to be a decrepit dump at $80 a night.  Just be careful when booking as these hotels change their names to get a clean slate of reviews.  My hotel was very old, but just changed names, so there were no customer reviews.

Main Street in Easter Island

Easter Island is about as far west as Phoenix, but is in New York’s time zone, so it stays very bright very late.  I had plenty of time to see the park at the southern end of the island.  It’s a 3-4 hour round trip hike from town and uphill, so try to bum a ride if you can.  A nice foreign exchange student from Seattle offered me a ride up the hill.  The park has some rock carvings, old stone huts, and great views.  The hike down the hill is nice and brings you to the airport and town.  The weather was perfect and the water was an amazing shade of blue.

Easter Island National Park

Once in town I arranged for a 24 hour ATV rental so I could get around the island the next day.  There are a few rental places on the main street in town and it costs about $60 for a day.  There are a few restaurants in town too, but none seemed very popular.

LAN oneworld plane from Polynesia

The next day I woke up to find it raining, seriously heavy rain.  Like raining so hard I left my digital camera in the hotel and just took my underwater disposable.  I only had one full day on the island, so I went out in the downpour to see what there was to see.  I drove along the eastern coast to get to the other national park and see the sights along the way.  The roads are in generally poor shape outside of town and the ground is covered with volcanic rock or poop.  It’s hard to tell the difference usually.

Easter Island is a very empty place

There are some status and rock carvings along the way, but the island is very barren and desolate.  It is almost creepy.  I arrived at the national park that was the quarry for the moai statues.  This park is up to a medium level of difficulty for hiking around.  There was also no signage explaining what you were looking at.  The park is very impressive with dozens of status dotting the side of the hill and great views of the island and sea.  This is the one place you have to go to on your visit.

Moai on Easter Island

A short drive down the road is the most impressive restored moai collection.  All the signage there explains how the Japanese helped restore it, with nothing explaining what it is. 

I found the very small beach at the top of the island.  The sand was almost pink and it looked amazing.

More moai statues on Easter Island

The one nice road goes from the beach to the airport; it was the only route that didn’t kill my back.  The infrastructure is lacking all around the island.  No signage, generally bad roads, crappy hotels, stray or wild animals everywhere, but it doesn't phase to locals and the tourist weren't likely to return anyway, so why invest?

Beach on Easter Island

At night, the island seems over run with cockroaches.  During the day, stray dogs take over.  You can see what you need to with only 24 hours on the island.  I took 48 because I thought the island was much larger than it is.  It also let me see it again when the rain stopped so I could use my digital camera.  I’m glad to have seen it, but don’t feel a need to return.

Not much there

South American Adventure - SCL-IPC

1. Booking
2. DEN-IAD-ATL-MIA
3. Miami
4. MIA-SCL
5. SCL-IPC
6. Easter Island
7. IPC-SCL
8. Santiago
9. SCL-MVD
10. Montevideo
11. MVD-SCL-MIA-IAD-DEN

I made it into Chile without having to pay the $140 reciprocity fee and was excited for my trip to Easter Island.  I had about ninety minutes to kill before boarding, so I decided to wander the terminal and then hang out in the lounge.   The ground side of Santiago’s airport is pretty small and there isn’t much to see.  I went through the domestic security and did not have to take off my shoes, remove my laptop, worry about liquid restrictions, or have a naked image of me taken.  Accordingly, the line moved fast.  There isn’t much on the domestic side of the airport, with good reason, someone can show up 30 minutes before their departure and should catch their flight.

I went looking for the LAN lounge only to find that both locations are on the international side of the airport.  There was a pay lounge (or Platinum Amex/ Priority Pass) available, but I didn’t bother.  Instead I found a nice window and pulled out a magazine I had packed.  The time went by quickly.

Santiago Chile Airport

Boarding started a little behind schedule, but went quickly.  LAN boards flights by row number and lines up everyone at the start.  Business class boarded first and I was jumping my way down the jet bridge with excitement.  I was stopped at the aircraft door because the crew was still preparing the plane.  After about 5 minutes, I took my seat and quickly settled in.  The 767 Business class to Easter Island is the same as the long haul international business class on LAN. 

LAN Business Class Meal to Easter Island

The flight boarded quickly and we were underway early.  A quick breakfast service was served soon after we crossed the coast line.  It was a simple (bland) omelet with veggies.  I wasn’t that hungry as I just had a similarly bland breakfast three hours prior on my last flight.

It is five hours over the ocean to Easter Island and I tried to sleep for most of them.  The flight attendant gave me a comforter and I quickly fell asleep.  I can sleep in United’s coach if I’m tried enough, so even though LAN’s business class seats aren't the most comfortable, I was out like a light.

Entrance to IPC terminal

I woke up about 45 minutes before landing and watched part of a movie.  I had a great view of the island as we came in to land.  Easter Island is a very small dot in a very large ocean.  We taxied to the terminal and the whole island seemed to come and meet the flight.  They use stairs at the front and back of the plane, then its a quick walk across the tarmac to the terminal.  There was a band playing and people with leis.  Before you enter the terminal building, purchase a national park pass from the small desk on the left.  It is $50 there, but $60 at the parks.  They also load you up with maps.  I quickly walked through the building and tried to find my name among the scores of drivers picking up passengers.

Duluth International Airport, A Favorite I've Never Flown

I like Duluth International Airport, it is one of my favorite airports in the world really and I’ve never flown out of there.  Duluth strikes me as a plucky little contender that wants to hit above its weight.  I subscribe to their email list and frequently get updates on them adding new destinations, frequencies, and even airport sponsored promotions.  Only Allegiant, Delta, and United have scheduled service, but the airport tries hard to give people incentive to fly with them instead of driving to MSP.  Duluth is a small airport and is more likely to have higher fares, but they offer unique benefits to help draw in customers.

DLH, Trying innovative ways to grow traffic

Here are some examples of how Duluth tries to grab customers and attention. They give United passengers three days of free parking, a big step to help bring down the total cost of a trip.  They run frequent promotions for free tickets.  I got one in my inbox today to promote the Allegiant flights and a few weeks ago, they were giving away United tickets to celebrate the two year anniversary of service to ORD.  They are also building a new terminal to enhance the passenger experience.  This is most likely a giant waste of money due to the low traffic numbers and the existing terminal seemed fine anyway (see Indianapolis for a larger scale example), but is another way they are trying to pull in customers.  Plucky little Duluth airport is fun to follow and I’d like to see more airports try to compete with innovative and creative solutions. 

South American Adventure - MIA-SCL

1. Booking
2. DEN-IAD-ATL-MIA
3. Miami
4. MIA-SCL
5. SCL-IPC
6. Easter Island
7. IPC-SCL
8. Santiago
9. SCL-MVD
10. Montevideo
11. MVD-SCL-MIA-IAD-DEN

I arrived at MIA very early for my flight because I wanted to see everything LAN had to offer.  Turns out I was a tad optimistic.  There was a dedicated check in counter for Business passengers with no line, while there were over 60 people in line for the coach counter.  Check in was fast and I was given my MIA-SCL boarding pass and a lounge invitation. 

Last time without a line

MIA, if you are not connecting, is a nice airport.  There were plenty of good views, I saw the Lufthansa A380 push back, decent food options, and great duty free shopping available.  There wasn’t even a line at security.  I stopped into most of the shops in south terminal and then went to the LAN contract lounge, Club America – J.  The lounge has a First Class side and a Business Class side, both had the same offerings.  I was directed to the smaller First Class side.  The lounge had free wifi, light snacks, soups, sodas, and off brand liquor.  Like many lounges there is a shortage of outlets and they are not easy to access.  There was a computer room with a few machines for shared use (though most users didn’t feel inclined to share).  The food offerings were mostly chips and cookies with a few finger sandwiches that were never refilled; I was generally disappointed after enjoying the wide spread offered by Lufthansa earlier in the trip.  Also, the lounge became very full, lots of poorly behaved kids, later in the night just before most of the LAN flights started go.

Club America - J, before the rush

LAN doesn’t board on time or in a very organized manner anywhere in their network.  Boarding started about 25 minutes late for no apparent reason.  I was at the front of the mess and made it on board without too much pushing around.  The Business cabin on the 767 had new lay flat seats with a 15in screen.  The cabin was 5 rows of 2x2x2 seating and 100% full.  I had a window seat and was quickly situated.   

One of several LAN 767-300's at MIA

LAN Business Class Seat

When the airline has no first class, what type of food service in the highest class should you expect?  I hope hoping for first class presentation, first class attention, and business class portions and courses.  It wound up it was all business class, but with coach class service.  The drink service started about 40 minutes after takeoff, a long wait for such a late departure.  Airlines should be quick to start service to maximize sleeping time on overnight flights like this.  I started with a salmon appetizer accompanied with salad and cheeses.  That was followed by a small fillet with mashed potatoes and mixed veggies.  I opted for ice cream for dessert.  The meal was good and the wines offered were excellent South American offerings, but this was offset by slow and not attentive service (there was a long stretch when my wine and water glasses were empty).

Appetizer - LAN Business Class

Main - LAN Business Class

Desert - LAN Business Class

After dinner I settled into my seat to watch a movie before bed.  The was a large selection and wide variety of films to pick (I watched 500 Days of Summer and it was a real bummer).  After the movie, I put my seat down to the flat position and went almost right to sleep.  The seats are described as parallel to the floor flat seats, not angled flat.  It’s true, but it felt like each seat section was a little bit lower than the last, like a stepped configuration.  This made it feel more slanted than I liked, but I drank a lot of red wine and it was late, so I was out like a light in any setting.

Breakfast was offered before arrival.  I opted for the full breakfast served 45 minutes before arrival over the quick bite meal served just before landing.  The meal consisted of scrambled eggs, potatoes and some fruit.  It was very bland.

Full Breakfast

The plane landed on time and there was a quick taxi to the gate.  Once the seatbelt sign came off two flight attendants rushed down the aisle and closed the curtains separating coach. I’ve never seen this before, but it’s a cool way to keep business class passengers from feeling rushed.  SCL charges a $140 fee to Americans to come into Chile (not charged for international transit passengers), but I used Irish passport and avoided the charge.  LAN does not give out customs fast track passes, so the immigration line took about 40 minutes to clear.  After customs, I went through a duty free shop, down to baggage claim, through agricultural inspection (all your bags will go through a screener), and finally into Chile.  Plan on it taking an hour without checked bags and 90 minutes with.

Chase Freedom vs. Amex Open

Chase Freedom is offering 5% back this quarter on Amazon.com and gas.  Sounds great, but my SPG Small Business Amex (same cost as the personal version, but more rewards) offers me 5% back on Amazon.com plus SPG points all the time.  The Open Savings program gives me a 5% rebate (posts in a few days) on my spending at Office Max on purchases over $100.  Office Max sells gift cards for Amazon.com, eBay, and many other retailers.  I also earn SPG points like usual on my purchase. There is an Office Max a short walk from where I work, so its no trouble at all to grab some gift cards (and office supply stores are fun to wander around). Chase Freedom is not looking that great this quarter, but it picks up next quarter.

Time to Panic

The new year means all your status trackers reset to 0.  I'm starting to freak out over this because I have a greatly reduced slate of business travel in 2012, so I need to make up more out of pocket.  I used to be able to become a 1K in October only with business travel.  Now I'm lucky to gather 20,000 miles for work travel.  

0's Scare Me

It's time to start collecting any cheap miles I can find.  Lucky for me, Southwest is starting new service to Providence, RI and United may match Southwest's low introductory fares, so cheap same day weekend trips may be out there.  

Points Inflation Strikes Again

It’s been a rough few months for points inflation. British Airways killed their zone based reward charts that had some great values and moved to a segment mileage pricing model.  Now My Coke Rewards has raised the price of a free soda from 30 points (24 points when I joined) to 40 points, a 33% increase.  Luckily I didn’t have a large balance in either program so I did not lose very much. 

It was 30 points last week

This does serve as a warning against sitting on large balances in programs because the prices can change without warning.  I have a diversified mileage collection with several carries, several hotel chains, and credit card points holdings.  Once you have enough for two round trips in first to anywhere you would want to go (or about 300,000 miles), you should think about diversifying your holdings.

South American Adventure - Miami

1. Booking
2. DEN-IAD-ATL-MIA
3. Miami
4. MIA-SCL
5. SCL-IPC
6. Easter Island
7. IPC-SCL
8. Santiago
9. SCL-MVD
10. Montevideo
11. MVD-SCL-MIA-IAD-DEN

I booked the Sheraton Miami Airport hotel on SPG points because I would receive about $0.04 of value from each point.  My personal SPG spend threshold is $0.03 of value per point.  I was arriving in the evening and staying by the airport; getting to sleep sooner was more important than getting into town.  The hotel shuttle came by in less than 5 minutes and it was about a 3 minute drive to the hotel.  The check in process was fast and I was in my room less than 10 minutes from leaving the terminal. 

I was upgraded to a suite, but I had never had one like this.  It was two floors tall and a regular room wide.  There was a spiral staircase connecting the lower living space with the upper bedroom.  The room was a little dated, but everything worked and the bed was the Sheraton standard and wonderfully comfortable.

The club lounge was being renovated so I was given a voucher for the full breakfast buffet in the restaurant.  The food was not worth the advertised price, but not a bad alternative to lounge food.  There were also some snacks, drinks, and computers off the lobby for club level guests to use at any time.  Nice set up really and much better than other what other hotels have provided when the lounge is closed.  I liked this hotel and won’t hesitate to stay there again.

The best hotel of my trip was the W South Beach.  I had a free resort night from SPG and this seemed like a great way to use it to save the $600 nightly rate.  The W SoBe categorizes itself as a resort, so they do not honor all SPG policies like early check-in and late check-out.  I did get a nice room close to the ocean and free wifi, so there were some benefits to being SPG Platinum.  The room was amazing and the common areas were great.  I also took advantage of the free Acura ride to go down to Smith and Wollensky’s.  The driver was friendly and car was really nice too.  It was the favorite part of my stay.

W South Beach View

The hotel is right on the beach and has a beach club set up for guests for a fee.  There is also a small pool more for lounging around than swimming in.  The W South Beach defiantly has more of a club feel than a resort feel, the quintessential W hotel if you read the brand marketing material.  You can also buy residence, rooms like mine start at $750,000 + $800 a month.

W South Beach Room

The W South Beach did poorly on the human aspect.  There were only two front desk people and always a line.  Also, housekeeping didn’t do a good job of cleaning the balcony.  The concierge staff just used City Search and didn’t have any insight or tips to share for good dinner spots (not the last of my concierge problems on this trip).  The staff had a general arrogance to them that was rather off-putting.  I've experienced similar attitude problems with W's, but never this bad and widespread.  There are better hotels in the area in the same price bracket, but not a bad use of a free promotion night.